In contrast, fully-modified malts (most of what you’ll buy at a homebrew shop) have already made use of these enzymes and adding a protein rest will remove body and head retention. flaked barley, wheat, rye, oatmeal) because it will break down larger proteins into smaller proteins and amino acids, thereby reducing foam stability. However, this rest should only be used when you use moderately-modified malts, or fully modified malts with over 25% of unmalted grain (e.g. For example, the typical protein rest at 120 – 130☏ (49° to 54☌) is used to break up proteins which might cause chill haze and can improve head retention. So, any step in the mash that breaks down these proteins will negatively affect your beer’s foam stability. Head retention depends on the level of proteins in your wort. Chocolate) help improve foam stability because of their high levels of Melanoidin, a protein polymer which is formed when sugars and amino acids combine. There is also some belief that dark malts (e.g. Carapils, Carafoam, Caramel malts), as well as wheat malt. Finding a proper balance is the challenge.Įxamples of foam-enhancing malts include crystal malts (e.g. However, high levels of proteins and dextrins can interact with tannins and compromise clarity, provide more nutrients to spoilage microorganisms, and mean less fermentable extract per pound of grain (which means more money out of your wallet!). The malt-derived proteins are typically hydrophobic (water-hating), causing them to move up towards the foam where they encounter other positive foam stabilizing substances, like those from hops. Malts high in proteins and dextrin enhance the body and head retention of beer because the proteins act as a structural component in foam. So, how can homebrewers improve their beer foam? Choose the Right Malt scratch on a glass or an engineered device) that allows bubbles to form and rise in the beer, sometimes referred to as “beading.” shaking or stirring) or creating a nucleation site (e.g. It doesn’t happen spontaneously-it requires some energy by either agitating the beer (e.g. So, what is foam? In short, foam is a dispersion of a relatively large amount of gas in a relatively small amount of liquid. The bubbles from your beer impact carbonation level, aroma, flavor and body.īeer foam is a complicated and far from understood phenomenon. But beer foam isn’t just about appearance. Upon completion of fermentation, crash to 35☏ (2☌), then bottle or keg and carbonate to approximately 1.75 volumes.ĭon’t try to make your sweet stouts “sweet.” Let the ingredients do the work for you and ferment a little cool to keep esters and diacetyl at bay.There’s nothing like the look of a creamy head on a homebrewed stout or the lacing on a glass after finishing a Belgian ale. Ferment at 60☏ (16☌) for 7 days, then allow temperature to rise to 70☏ (21☌) and hold for 3–4 days. Aerate with pure oxygen or filtered air and pitch the yeast. Chill the wort to slightly below fermentation temperature, about 60☏ (16☌). Stir the lactose until completely dissolved. Boil for 60 minutes, adding hops and lactose according to the schedule. Sparge the grains with 4 gallons (15 liters) and top up as necessary to obtain 6 gallons (23 liters) of wort. Vorlauf until the runnings are clear, then run off into kettle. Mill the grains and mix with 3.3 gallons (12.4 liters) of 163☏ (73☌) strike water to reach mash temperature of 152☏ (67☌).
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